Pet odor that actually goes away. Not masked, eliminated.

Because the urine is under the carpet, not on it. When fresh urine hits carpet, gravity pulls it through the face yarn, into the pad, and onto the subfloor. Surface cleaning only treats the top. On humid days, crystallized salts in the pad rehydrate and the ammonia smell releases. The only real fix is treating all three layers.

Depends on severity. A single accident, caught early, no. Multiple deposits in the same spot over months, or a cat urinating repeatedly in one corner, probably yes. We test with a moisture meter and tell you honestly which it is. Pad replacement is cheap ($1/sq ft) compared to replacing the whole carpet.

Area rugs need in-plant treatment for pet stains, the entire rug gets submerged in an enzyme bath, not just spot-sprayed. See our rug cleaning page. Attempting a DIY enzyme soak on wool will usually felt the fibers.

Most of the time, yes, if the stain is less than a few months old. Old pet stains can permanently change fiber dye. We try a tannin-and-protein combo spotter after the enzyme; if color won't return, we recommend a carpet patch in that spot.

Yes. We use a protein-specific enzyme that's nontoxic when dry. We ask you to keep pets off the treated area until the carpet dries (4–6 hours); once dry, it's safe to walk on barefoot and for the dog to lie on.